A guide on what to eat and where to find it in Kazakhstan’s capital
Sampling local cuisine is one of the best ways to immerse yourself in a culture. Below we will talk about some of the best Kazakh dishes and where to find them in Astana.
Table of Contents
Beshbarmak
Beshbarmak, or Besh for short, is considered the national staple of Kazakhstan. It is a hearty dish made of boiled meat (usually horse, lamb or beef) mixed with dough and served on a bed of wide, flat noodles (called naryns), topped with onions and usually accompanied with a meaty broth on the side. Beshbarmak translates to ‘five fingers’ in Turkic, as it is traditionally eaten with ones hands (although this is rarely seen today in glitzy Astana) and is also a popular dish around the region.
Navat is a popular choice to try the dish, with many locations in Astana as well as Almaty.
Beshbarmak served at Navat
Shashlik, Kazy and Baursak
Shashlik is the Kazakh equivalent of the shish-kabob- chunks of meat (traditionally lamb but beef and chicken are common in modern times) are marinated overnight in a vinegar marinade mixed with onions and herbs, then they are skewered (the word shashlik comes from Turkic and translates to ‘skewerable’) with the meat alone or a combination of fat and vegetables such as peppers, onions, mushrooms and tomatoes and are cooked on a charcoal barbqeue called a mangal. It is usually served with a side of onions and a thing flatbread called lavash.
Kazy is a traditional Kazakh sausage made from horse meat and fat. The meat comes from the horse’s ribs which are seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic and added to the horse intestines which have been brined. These are then smoked for several hours and boiled before serving. It is a common accompaniment with shashlik.
Another common staple often served with shashlik is baursak. Baursak are Kazakhstan’s version of doughnuts- pockets of fluffy fried dough, usually prepared in a diamond shape and unsweetened (although you can find sweetened alternatives served with things like jam and honey).
Shashlik and baursak are usually considered more akin to fast food, and there are several places around the city where you can try them. Ogonok on Magzhan Zhumabaev Avenue is a popular, slightly more upscale option to sample the dish.
Shashlik at Ogonok with kazy at the end
Kazakh baursak
Plov
Plov is another delicious staple. Although considered the national dish of Uzbekistan, it is common throughout the region. It is made by charring either lamb or beef, adding them to a stew of onions, carrots and garlic and cooking the rice in the stew until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. It is usually cooked in large cooking pot called a kazon on an open fire. It is served on a large platter and is accompanied by simple salads or bread.
Karima, on Dostyk ave, is a common place that locals and visitors alike go to have some.
Kazakh plov
Laghman
Laghman is another meat and noodles dish- although it is more like a noodle soup than beshbarmak and is influenced by the Uyghur community in the country. Laghman is made of stir-fried beef or lamb which is then simmered and served with long hand-pulled noodles. Bell-peppers, onions and celery are common vegetable additions. It is a perfect comfort food after long journeys or cold nights.
Uzbekskiy Dvor on Turan ave is a place where locals go to get their fill.
Tradional laghman dish
Manty & vegetarian/vegan options
For vegetarians and vegans, Kazakhstan can be difficult at times given its meat-heavy cuisine. While vegetables at markets are fresh and very affordable, finding options in restaurants can be challenging. Manty, the Kazakh version of the dumpling, is a good option as they are often served with pumpkin or potatoes (in addition to lamb). The filling is wrapped in a thin dough sheet and is then steamed in a manti-kazan pot. It is served with sour cream or a garlic/onion sauce and often topped with red pepper.
Vegggie House on Uly Dala Avenue is an excellent choice to try them- they also have several other vegetarian and vegan options, including a veg-only shashlik. They also serve delicious baursak.
Manti at Veggie House.
You can sample all these fares on one of our private tours of Kazakhstan. Dig in!