When you think about floating villages, places such as Kampong Phluk and Kampong Khleang on Cambodia’s Tonlé Sap Lake are usually the first that come to mind. Both are unique (and absolutely worth a visit), but there is another water settlement in Southeast Asia that is far less talked about.
In the middle of Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei’s capital, you’ll find Kampong Ayer, a huge settlement built entirely on stilts above the Brunei River. Not just huge. It is actually said to be the largest floating village in the world.
Kampong Ayer: Then and Now
Long before the modern capital was built on the mainland, Kampong Ayer was the heart of the Bruneian Sultanate. For hundreds of years, the sultan’s palace, trading areas, and main communities were all located here on the river.
The water was the main highway. Boats were used to get around, and the river was where trade, politics, and daily life took place. Merchants from across Asia and beyond came here, making Kampong Ayer an important trading hub.
When European explorers arrived in the 1500s, they were amazed by what they saw. A large, well-organised city built entirely above water, ending up with the nickname “Venice of the East,” a name that is still being used today, although Kampong Ayer is far older than this comparison suggests.
So what has changed today?
Life still goes on much as it always has in Kampong Ayer, but with some modern touches. Unlike many other floating villages around the world, most houses here have electricity, running water, and Wi-Fi.
There are also schools, mosques, shops, and even fire stations, and if anyone break the law, the police boat will arrive, making Kampong Ayer feel like a normal part of the city. It may look simple and traditional, but it continues to adapt, showing how old ways of life can exist alongside modern development.
What Is It Like to Visit Kampong Ayer?
Visiting Kampong Ayer is surprisingly easy, especially compared to more remote floating villages around Southeast Asia. From the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan, it only takes a few minutes by water taxi to reach the settlement. These boats are everywhere along the waterfront, and hopping on one is as simple as getting a taxi on land.
As you approach, the scale of Kampong Ayer becomes clear. This is not just a small cluster of houses, but an endless network of wooden buildings, walkways, and bridges stretching across the water.
Walking through Kampong Ayer is a unique experience. Narrow wooden walkways lead you past homes, small shops, local mosques, and even the occasional crocodile warning sign. You’ll see children playing, families going about their daily routines, and boats constantly moving back and forth.
Why Visit Kampong Ayer?
In many parts of the world, traditional ways of life are disappearing as cities expand and modernise. Kampong Ayer is a rare example of a place that has managed to hold onto its identity while still adapting to change.
If you find yourself in Brunei, Kampong Ayer is not just worth a visit, it is essential. It tells the story of the country in a way that no modern building or museum can, showing how life on the water has shaped Brunei for centuries and continues to do so today.
It also offers a fascinating contrast to the modern city just across the river. Bandar Seri Begawan is known for its wide roads, clean streets, and impressive buildings, reflecting Brunei’s extreme oil wealth.
From Kampong Ayer, you can look across the water and see landmarks like the gold-domed Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque dominating the skyline.
This contrast is what makes Kampong Ayer so interesting and unique. It is not a place stuck in the past, nor has it been replaced by modern development. Instead, the two exist side by side, showing both the traditional roots of Brunei and the country’s modern identity today.